The Next Adventure
It's been nearly 3 months since we finished the Henry Kayak Caribbean trip. We've been skiing, working, climbing, and relaxing since then.
Now, for Russell it's time for him to get going on his next adventure.
This June he will attempt to break the Human Powered Solo Circumnavigation Record of Vancouver Island. Roughly 1100 kilometers around, it will be about one sixth the length of the Caribbean trip but done in one fourteenth of the time. If you can wrap your head around that...
The record is 15 days 11 hours 47 minutes. He has to beat that.
Follow him on his website www.russellfhenry.wix.com/vancouverisland and on his Facebook Event
Time To Recap and Get On With This Thing Called Life
So we have told you what happened but this is our humble attempt to lay out what it all means.
On a snowy dark evening over 2 years ago my adventurous brother Russell and I were chatting on Skype. He pitched the idea of this adventure to me much like he had pitched dozens of adventures before and since. This one stuck though.
Why did it stick? I think it had the right mix of a lot of things. Russ and I had become closer during the years following high school and were pretty well suited as a team to tackle something big. I was coming towards the end of my undergrad degree and needed a big distraction from the academic world. I have always done well at school but I desperately need to mix it with outdoor adventure to satiate my restlessness. Our mode of transport would be kayaks and this was something we had both been doing virtually since birth. There were many reasons I suppose, but when you really boil it down it just seemed right.
After time flew by and the preparations were made, we suddenly found ourselves stepping onto the Victoria Clipper. When I sat down in my seat things really started to sink in. All the bad thoughts started racing through my head and everything in between disaster and death had me pretty petrified. There was a large swell of momentum behind us though and next thing we knew we were in Belem Brazil up to our necks in the biggest challenge of our lives.
Very long story far too short, we faced just about everything the world could throw at us over the next 8 months. I am pretty sure you could get a good sense of those things from browsing photos and reading some past blog posts. I'll move right along to what those challenges did to us.
What seems like 3 years, but is actually just 3 short weeks ago, Russ and I pulled onto shore in Florida after a trip that has changed us forever. While I know that we have changed the real question is in what ways and to what extent. Unfortunately I have no “aha!” moments to report. Perhaps that's a good thing though and I set out on this trip with a lot of skills already in their infancy. What I do have to report is a growth, deepening, and increased understanding of these skills. Patience, perseverance, calm, “riding by the seat of my pants...ability”, work-ethic, teamwork, friendship, to name just a few.
I suppose a few thank yous are in order. Thank you for all the help along the journey to all the people who heaped it upon us. Thank you to our sponsors, Russ has you covered below. Thank you to our parents because there is few things harder than letting your kids (and only two kids) do something this dangerous and supporting them wholeheartedly along the way. Thank you to my brother. Without you this wouldn't have happened and as much as I don't often give you credit for it you are a huge inspiration. And a good friend.
Looking to the future I am really enjoying settling back down on the West Coast. This summer I will be living and working in Victoria. Getting out there as much as possible will have to be balanced with earning money for law school this Fall. In August I will head out across the country to Toronto to attend U of T. This is going to be a big change but one I am really looking forward to. I have had a big physical challenge recently, now its time to stretch my mind.
Ultimately, this trip is fading fast and it already seems like it happened a lifetime ago. But I don't think this is a bad thing. It's as if the trip is integrating into me and the wild experiences are slowly getting digested into who I am. They are becoming part of me. And I think I am better for it. That seems like as good a reason as any to get out there.
Cheers
Graham
It's now been three weeks since we took our last strokes in the Atlantic that pulled us onto Juno Beach and the warm reception that followed. We've been back in BC for over two weeks and are finally starting to settle in. That means we have had the time to reflect a little on the trip as a whole, how we've been changed, and what it all means.
When I thought up the trip idea for my class project at Thompson Rivers University I simply looked at a map and realized you can connect the dots all the way across the Caribbean. That became my “Dream Expedition” project which soon turned out to be the initial trip plan for Henry Kayak. When I initially told Graham about the trip I admit I was a little caught up in the moment and hadn't seriously considered what I was proposing. Nonetheless we both went along with it, made a sponsorship proposal, and then all of a sudden we had a website, a trip bank account, and gear that companies had given us in expectation for us to actually do the thing.
On our flight down to Brazil I kept asking myself why I was doing this ridiculously long kayak trip but just couldn't figure it out. Throughout the ensuing three or four months I constantly pondered the question (especially during those horrible nights on the mud flats). I didn't know why I was there, all I knew was that it felt right.
I think the expedition wasn't an expedition at all, it was just life. An “expedition” or “trip” is typically something you do that is a break from or abnormal from your normal life. Our journey was all we knew for 8 and a half months. Everyday we would wake up and regardless of if we were paddling that day or not our thoughts were constantly on the idea of moving and getting to the next place. That's what has made transitioning back into normal life a little difficult. Being stationary isn't what's weird, it's the not having to plan where we're going next and constantly looking ahead. I think that's the driving force on what has spurred some of my plans for the spring.
Last week Graham and I went and watched the Reel Paddling Film Festival at Ocean River. One of the videos was about some guys in Ontario that went on a 30 day canoe trip. Near the end of the film one of the fellows says a thing that really describes how I've felt for the last while. He says something along the lines of, “Something I've learned from this trip is that there is never going to be that 'Aha!' moment where I understand everything. All that's going to happen is I'm going to get a little bit stronger everyday [obviously physically but more importantly mentally] and then I'm going to go to sleep and do it all over again the next day.” That is exactly what happened to myself and I think Graham as well on the trip. The days just starting rolling by and unknowingly we grew and developed in ways that couldn't have been achieved elsewhere.
Like I said before, even despite the really crappy situations we sometime found ourselves in, the trip just felt right. I've now come to realize that it all happened at exactly the right time in my life. I didn't (and still don't) have any serious commitments, needed an adventure, needed to get the travel bug out of my system, wanted to make a name for myself, and really wanted to see if we could actually pull it off. I think the reason I did the trip all comes down to the fact that it was the correct next step in my life, and I think that step took me to a whole new chapter.
Now for some thanks. Obviously this trip could not have been possible if it weren't for the generosity, kindness, and support from so many people.
First and foremost our parents. Our mother stood by as the constant word of reason and “hole-poker” when we were in the planning stages. Mostly out of her worry she questioned every possible hole in the plan and also in our decision to actually do the trip. She was a great reality check. Initially our dad was the supportive “gung-ho” parent who almost tricked himself that he was coming along with us. He was super helpful in the planning stages and in figuring out gear. As our departure date neared the reality dawned on him and he slowly became the worrisome figure you'd expect from a parent. On the trip both our mum and dad were our ground control arranging packages of replacement gear to get to us, sending weather updates, and insisting on more frequent emails.
Then there was the rest of our family, all our friends from home and those whom we met along the way. The support we saw was unbelievable. From people donating money, promoting us, to letting us stay on their boat, we saw it all. It's crazy what people will do for you when you're doing something out of the ordinary.
Half of our trip budget was covered by sponsorship meaning we seriously could not have done the trip without them. Current Designs Kayaks gave us two incredible boats. We beat the living hell out them but they still somehow got us all the way to Florida. With only having to do a couple minor repairs Current Designs Nomad GTS' were definitely the right choice of kayak to bring. Werner Paddles hooked us up big time with carbon fibre Kalliste bent shafts and fibre glass Camanos as spares. On average we each took about 28,000 strokes a day and were on the water for about 180 days. That's a lot of wear and tear. Truly bomb proof paddles. Kokatat Watersports Wear gave us hats, Maximus Prime PFDs with hydration packs, and Anorak paddling jackets. Our hats kept us from getting fried from the sun, our PFDs kept us safe, hydration packs kept us alive in the Amazonian heat, and our jackets kept us warm while paddling through the night. InReach Canada was amazing. Our InReach SE was probably the most bomber piece of gear we had with us. Thankfully we never had to use the SOS function but from the Mapshare and text messages we could send it proved to be an absolutely vital piece of technology. Along with our parents, Ocean River Sports was our ground control. They set us up with a gear allowance at the start of the trip and whenever we needed replacement gear ORS had it and Gordie and shipping wizard got it to us. MapTown Calgary gave us a free Garmin GPS and when that one fried in the South American heat they unhesitatingly sent us a new one. Incredible. Trailhead Kingston is an outdoor store in Ontario that supported us not only with financial support at the start of the trip but also helped pay for our arrival party in Florida. Sea to Summit gave us a mixed bag of goodies before the trip that was super helpful, The Edge Food Energy gave us dozens upon dozens of energy bars, Solar Joos gave us two great solar chargers, Coast Mountain Culture Magazine helped promote us and Nikki Rekman Sales worked out all our sponsorships with Werner and Kokatat. THANK YOU ALL.
Lastly, there's the guy that kept me company on this whole thing, my brother Graham. I couldn't before the trip and still can't think of a better person to have done it with. Sure I hated his guts at times and sure we had some tempered arguments but when it really boils down to it, we rocked it. Together.
Moving forward now, I am back living and working at Mt. Washington on ski patrol. I think it's a good place for me at the moment to transition into real life. It's also a serious breeding ground for adventurous ideas. This May myself and four other patrollers have plans to access and climb Mt. Waddington fully human powered. Then this June I hope to break the Vancouver Island human powered circumnavigation record. 1000 kilometers in 15 days.
So as you can see one adventure has come to an end, but I truly hope and believe it wasn't 'the adventure of my lifetime', because there are certainly many more to come.
For the wild
Russell
Our Last Month At Sea
Now that we are back home in Victoria and are slowly adjusting to real life we have the time and patience to lay out what exactly went on in the last month of the trip. Here it goes:
When we left all our lovely friends in Turks and Caicos we had ourselves a few big crossings to get us to the more inhabited Bahamian Islands. Our first stop was the island of Mayaguana. It's larger than Provo in Turks and Caicos but only home to about 600 people. So, we didn't see too many folks here except for when we stopped by in Abraham Bay Settlement to check into the country. Turns out they were out of immigration cards and couldn't do it so they told us to do it on Long Island when we got there. Oddly the bug situation on our second and final night on Mayaguana was close to South American standards. Although we were in the tent it was still nerve racking as we thought it may be possible the Bahamas were bug central. It turns out we were wrong as the bugs left, and everything turned incredible.
After a one night stop on the Plana Cays we were over to Aklins and Crooked Island. Here we had some nice mellow paddling days on the protected side of the islands. One camp sight turned out to be the ultimate beach combing beach where we found lightbulbs, 5 hard hats, and cans from strange places like Vietnam. As we approached the Northwest corner of Crooked we saw the beastly Bird Rock lighthouse. Standing 112 feet high it's no longer operational and left open for those with boats to go and explore. It was pretty cool walking up the rusty spiral staircase to the top in the howling wind we had that day. Once we finished there we paddled the short distance to Land Rail Point Settlement and were greeted by some VERY generous Bahamians. After eating lunch at the town restaurant a kind woman named Willy who runs it offered to put us up in her guesthouse for the night. So we spent the afternoon lounging in our own little house and then meeting up with some nice vacationers at Willy's restaurant for dinner. Good time.
From there we crossed on Super Bowl Sunday to Long Island. This is where we were supposed to check into the country but didn't end up going to any towns, so we had to put it off for another couple days. It took us just one day to get to the far West tip of the island set up to cross over to the Exumas.
Then we reached the Exumas, aka PARADISE. The Exumas are an island chain of over 350 cays that run 220 kilometers in a Northwesterly direction. Absolutely perfect for us. Our first stop in the Exumas was at the magnificent Turquoise Cay Boutique Hotel on Great Exuma. Not only did they agree to host us for a couple nights, they also fed us, took us out on the town(Georgetown, where we also finally signed into the country), and really treated us like good friends. We also got to go and talk with a local school of Bahamian students who were hilarious and blown away by us and our story. The owner and management at Turquoise are younger than your typical resort runners but it actually brings this very cool lively edge to the hotel. They are really awesome. Thanks guys! When we left Great Exuma we started our way up into the Cays. On our second night out we landed on Little Farmer Cay where a small sailboat race was just wrapping up. There were loads of locals and sailors mingling around whom we got to chat with. The next day was a short one up to the populated Staniel Cay. This was a very cool island that has a marina, really nice vibe, quaint little bungalows, and a perfect beach to camp on! However, while having a beer at the popular pub we met Maureen and Brian from Berry, Ontario. After chatting with them for a while it was decided that we would spend the night sleeping on their 60 something foot power yacht. So we went back to their boat with a few other boaters, 'socialized' for a few hours, and then hit the hay. The next day may have been the best day of the trip... In the morning Maureen made us breakfast and sent us on our way with lots of food. Our first stop was at the Thunderball Cave (named after the Bond movie filmed there in the 60's) which was definitely the best snorkeling of the trip. Incredible corals, fish, and obviously the cave. From there we paddled around the corner to the pig beach. What's the pig beach? Well, it's a beach with a lot of pigs. They live there. And they swim! It's crazy! The rest of the day involved us paddling through picture perfect islands with no wind and incredible waters. The next couple days were pretty similar. Protected paddling, gorgeous scenery, and lots of private islands with SUPER houses. Lots of super yachts around these parts as well. After a few more days we made it to Alan Cay (note that 'Cay' is pronounced 'Key') where we had our last night in the Exumas.
The days leading up to our crossing to New Providence all the sailors we spoke with said that there was a cold front moving in and they were anchoring waiting for it pass. Silly us decided otherwise and thought we could handle 15 to 20 knot headwinds and thunder showers. That day we paddled through the largest storm of the trip. It was pretty scary. On New Providence is the capital city of Nassau and just across a bridge from Nassau is Atlantis Resort. This place is mega. Over 3000 rooms, has a waterpark, and is advertised on tv all across North America. We had a bit of interest when we emailed them but nothing was set in stone for our arrival and whether or not they would give us a room. Due to our long day on the water we arrived at Atlantis in the dark at about ten o'clock. When we went to the reception they told us that no one with the authority to give us a free room was around at that hour. At first we were a little stumped as to what to do, then our friend Todd who we had just met 20 minutes previously on the dock came in wondering if we'd gotten a room. When he learned we hadn't he got pretty frustrated with the staff and eventually paid for our room himself. That was the most up front, spontaneous form of generosity we'd seen on the whole trip if not ever. So if you're ever in New York and need something paved hit Todd up, he's a great guy. t.roy@powerhousepaving.com. The next morning when we went down to the reception and spoke with a manager she unhesitatingly comp'd us a room for the following night. That day we went and slid down some waterfalls, gorged at the buffet, and pretended we were millionaires. Once we left Atlantis we had one more night on New Providence before shooting off for Andros.
Great crossing to the island of Andros where we spent a couple nights getting across it and resting for a big paddle to the Bimini island chain.
The crossing to Beach Cay in the Bimini chain was 100 kms. We left at 1 a.m. and arrived at 4 the next day. It was the kind of crossing we didn't even really bat an eyelash at. From all the previous crossings under our belt this one seemed just like another day at the office. We then had one more day to get us up to the Bimini Big Game Club Resort and Marina. These generous folks put us up at only a moments notice. It was really nice to have a room and comfortable beds to prepare ourselves for the final crossing OF THE TRIP.
We left Bimini at 10:30 p.m. to paddle across the Gulfstream all the way up to Juno Beach, Florida. The Gulfstream is the majority of the Caribbean water exiting the Caribbean. It runs South to North right through the passage between Bimini and Florida and can get up to 5 knots in speed. When we left Bimini Miami was actually the closest bit of Florida to us being only 80 kilometers away but due to the current we planned on landing at Juno Beach 120 kms North. This made the crossing 150 kms. All through the night we paddled well and felt strong. When the sun rose we were in good spirits and soon saw skyscrapers poking over the water ahead. Just after 3 o'clock nearing our destination we started to see a small crowd gathered on the beach. This could only have been Coke Coakley and our welcome party. Coke Coakley is a guy who lives in Juno Beach and got in contact with us 7 months ago about arranging our welcome party. He heard about us through a relative of ours that he works with and as soon as he made initial contact with us was full on gung ho about helping us out. We'd been emailing back and forth with Coke sporadically throughout the whole trip and knew he was arranging some sort of shindig at the Marine Life Center in Juno Beach for us. When we landed we were not sure what quite to expect.
There was champagne, beer, ESPN, local media, our parents, and about 30 other enthusiastic folks that heard about us through one way or another. Everyone was shaking our hands, wanting photos with us, giving us their congratulations made us feel like absolute rock stars. We then moved up to the Loggerhead Marinelife Center where there was more booze, more friendly people, food, presentation boards with our photos and welcome wishes all over. Also lots of turtles! Loggerhead is a conservation and research facility that helps and studies the rehabilitation of sea turtles. It was cool getting a tour around learning about the beasts we'd been seeing in the waters for the last few months. Coke made a great speech and presented us with some very interesting gifts... He also wrangled us a letter from the B.C. Premier Christy Clark and the Victoria Mayor Dean Fortin congratulating us on completing the trip. Everyone at Loggerhead, all those who helped out, and especially Coke were INCREDIBLE. Thanks so much, you really capped the trip off perfectly.
After a couple of days in Florida with our folks we flew back to Victoria arriving the night before last. We are now awkwardly trying to get back into the swing of things but do accept the fact that life is going to be a little bit different for a while.
Tomorrow, Friday the 28th we are speaking at Ocean River Sports in downtown Victoria. 5 dollar minimum donation at the door that goes to YMCA Strong Kids. Doors open at 6:30, the presentation will start at 7:30. Oh, and there will be a keg. Hope to see you there!
Final blogpost to come...
February 27th, 2014
HELLOOOOOO WORLD!
Here we are in Juno Beach, Florida, U.S.A.!
After a 17 hour crossing from Bimini in the Bahamas over to here today we we greeted by an INCREDIBLE crowd. Loads of new friends here in Juno Beach arranged an arrival party for us at the Loggerhead Marine Life Center. ESPN was there, the local press, our parents, and so many other kind folks. It was an unbelievable experience. Thank you everyone.
So we have made it, are now with our family and are surrounded by great people.
That's all for now, more detailed blog post to come in the next couple days.
We fly home in THREE DAYS.
February 22nd, 2014
Time to lock and load
It´s finally time to go.
After 10 days of waiting for the right winds we are pulling the trigger and setting out on the longest crossing of the expedition. It will take us from here in Luperon in the Dominican Republic to the Turks and Caicos Islands after about 30 hours and 90 miles of paddling.
Luperon has been just about the best place imaginable to be stuck. We have had a free place to camp, a supportive community, and friends of all shapes and sizes interested to chat and buy us a beer. This is a pretty special place that a lot of people come to and never leave. We can see why. But for us our time has come and we must move on. The crossing is obviously daunting but when we spend so much time sitting and waiting to get it over with, by the time that opportunity comes up we are chomping at the bit.
We aim to be pushing off at 8am Atlantic time and you can follow are progress with hourly updates on our "where we at?!" page.
Yehaww, here we go.
January 15th 2014
Provo, Turks and Caicos
The last month has been frustratingly slow, full of unwanted delays, and really knocked us back a while, BUT somehow still amazing. In Luperon, Dominican Republic we were there hunkered down for 10 days waiting for the weather to calm down. Thankfully we were surrounded and fully engrossed in an incredible community. Luperon has this magical draw that pulls sailors into it's harbour and doesn't let them leave. We played baseball, did Quiz Night, Russell sang at an open mic, we watched movies, and drank gallons of cheap beer. Fran and all the McCartys, Lynn, Yanna, Wendy, Watchy, Herman, and everyone else thank you. We spent a night on the boat of a nice young ramblin' couple, Rachel and Malcolm. Another traveller named Justin was also staying with them making it a really nice crew for the evening and then the whole next day as we went and swam in some gorgeous waterfalls. We spent some time with Margie, Terry, and Phil. Some sailors who sailed through once upon a time and decided it was the place to return to retire properly in paradise. Everyone in Luperon who we shared a beer with and spent time with THANK YOU. Hopefully we will see you again one day.
Finally after 10 days of waiting we got the weather window we were looking for so we set off on the big crossing to the Turks and Caicos. We predicted the crossing taking us anywhere from 24 to 30 hours. After having lunch, dinner, and breakfast on the water we arrived on our own private island, Big Sandy Cay, Turks and Caicos. The crossing took us just about 27 hours and just like our largest crossing before the hardest part was staying awake.
We moved over to the small little island of Salt Cay where we thought we could check into the country. Turns out we couldn't but we spent a great chill afternoon there and met some divers on a mission to film whales. Very cool. From there we shot across to South Caicos and had a perfectly dirty campsight at Cockburn Harbour. After a frustratingly slow morning dealing with Customs and Immigration we started out across the massive Caicos Bank. In water never more than 2 feet deep we blasted over to Middle Caicos and grabbed a questionably dry campsite amongst the mangroves. Turns out it stayed dry and we were at it again the next morning to complete our crossing of the Bank and end up at Providenciales (Provo).
We had made a contact with a guy named Ian Arthur and after following the directions up the canals to his house we were left floating outside unsure which one was his. Thankfully a man and a baby walked out on a porch and after yelling up to him we found out Ian's place was right next door. It turns out the man and baby were actually named Tibi and Emerick. Tibi invited us over for dinner while we were waiting around for Ian to return and we sort of just never left. They had an empty guesthouse and we were just going to be camping on Ians lawn so we gladly took them up on their offer. Tibi, Lise, Alexie, and Emerick have been an adoptive family for the past few days and along with Ian and Gemma next door have made us feel right at home. Provo is a pretty awesome place and experiencing it through the eyes of a couple young families that live here has been amazing.
We will paddle up to the NW point of the island today and say a tough goodbye to our hosts and friends here. Tomorrow it is off across to the Bahamas and the last country before we reach Florida. The Eastern most islands are very remote and we are going to have a big 8 day push to get to the Exumas. It's exciting to get a move on once again and bang off another 400km or so on our way to Florida.
So many friends everywhere we go. It's truly incredible and is what making this trip the best thing we've ever done.
Less than a month left! Holy Smokes!
Jan 26th 2014
Culebra
So here we are on the island of Culebra. It sits about 30km off the east coast of Puerto Rico, has a population of under 2000 people, marks the end of the Virgin Island, and believe it or not is part of the might USofA. The paddling here has been a dream (for the most part) and it has, in an odd way, reminded us of paddling back on the West Coast of Canada. Sure the temperature is a little different and the water a beautiful aquamarine blue but the abundance of islands, friendly little communities, and small island vibes are definititely reminding us of home.
As we roll closer to the holidays, home, and in particular the people there are on our minds more than usual. We have been away for almost 6 months now and while that time has been filled with incredible experiences and amazing places, a sense of home and belonging is something both of us are craving. We change places almost daily and rarely spend longer than 2 days in any one location. This constant movement and change is both thrilling and at the same time sort of lonely as we don't often get much chance to make connections with the people in the places we visit. Home is such a thrilling idea for us because its a place we belong, a place we can shape, and not just a place we are passing though. It is hard to imagine shaking these feelings entirely as the nature of our trip sees us packing up and shipping out so often. I think it is a good thing to crave this though because it means we have a good thing going outside of this amazing adventure as well. Home is something that will always be there, always amazing, and something that will make a mighty sweet prize for finishing this trip.
This is not to say we are having a lousy time. Quite the opposite actually. After motoring (with our arms) up the last of the Lesser Antilles we made the big 18 hour paddle to the Virgin Islands and have now been taking our time through this paradise of an Archipelago. Another big bonus from the last few weeks has been the amazingly friendly people we have been meeting. What has been really special though is when, in some cases, we have managed to get past the usual blurb about our trip and the usual questions to actually spending some time together and getting to know each other. In Anguilla it was Rod, Cathy, Don, and Marlene from Calgary who took us out to dinner and an amazing day of cruising on their catamaran. In the British Virgin Islands it was Ian who we met through a friend we made a month ago and agreed to put us up after our big crossing. He works on some guy named Richard Branson's new private island and was the only person living there at the time. We stayed two nights, relaxed our faces off, and got an awesome tour of the area as well. Over here in Culebra we met Alexander and Kay at the Homeland Security office. Not exactly the place to start a friendship but after seeing them at the bar later they invited us to stay the night on their boat. This beat the going plan of sleeping down a dirt road and we had a great evening shooting the shit on their boat in the bay. Thanks to all these people and of course the many more. You make this trip what it is.
So now we are headed west. The wind at our backs and aside from 3 days of crossings, almost a month of coastline paddling. It is going to be nice to get into a rythm and start pounding out the kms again.
Alright Puerto Rico, let's tango.
December 9th 2013
Happy Belated Holidays!
Okay, here we go. It´s been a while since our last update and oh boy has a ton happened.
It has been great having some real coastline to follow for more than a day or two. We can get into a daily rhythm of waking up at 6 30, are on the water by 8, paddle till 4 or 5, then find a reef break or harbor to sneak into, make camp, and lights out by 8 or 9 o´clock. That being said, it certainly doesn´t mean nothing interesting happens to us. Compared to our long mud and bug filled days in South America and even our island hopping days of the Lesser Antilles, these westward days have been loaded with surprises and friends left, right, and center.
After another bumpy crossing from Culebra to the big island of Puerto Rico it took us another day to reach the big city and monstrous tourist town of San Juan. Our plan was to stay at a hostel for the night so we could get laundry done, post sent, and food for the next few days. However, upon befriending the marina manager she let us stay in Roxy, an abandoned boat at the marina. Cool! The next evening we made some new friends like Julio who let us watch a movie on his boat after he went to bed; Tito Kayak who´s kayaked all around the Caribbean; and Brendan and his friend Kelli whom let us stay on his sailboat for the night! Great people in San Juan and actually a pretty cool place in general. Oh! We also got in a car crash. Crazy!
From San Juan it was a few solid days along the north coast with surfers around every corner to get us to the Rincon Peninsula. This is where the hardest few days we´ve had in the Caribbean began. Mona Passage is the name for the body of water separating Puerto Rico and The Dominican Republic. It´s 120 kilometers across as a straight shot but thankfully there is Mona Island conveniently located right smack dab in the middle. So, leaving Rincon we had a great day of calm water until we neared Mona and realized that we were being pushed to the North side (when we wanted to be on the South side) at an alarming velocity. It was a huge battle with us moving at maybe a knot for a half hour or so to get us to the South side where the current changed in our favour and we made it to a beach and camp right at sunset. The next day was really cool walking across the island to the old lighthouse and seeing a zillion iguanas. Then from Mona to the D.R. it was pretty much the same story. Great start to the day but as we neared land current was pushing us South (we wanted to go North) and we had another battle. Finally we saw a beach and landed on it in some surf and high winds just at dusk. Unfortunately for us we weren´t aware that this beach belonged to Eden Roc´s ¨The Palace¨. Aka, the most exclusive resort around. So, to our surprise they didn´t let us camp there. Damn. Frustrated and reluctant we headed back out through the surf in the dark and kept paddling till we found another beach a few clicks up the coast.
The next two days were slow for us to get through immigration and paddle through high winds, big water, and yes you guessed it bad currents. Once we finally rounded Punta Cana the currents stopped and we were greeted with the most tourists either of us had ever seen in one place. The beaches of Punta Cana are filled side by side with mega all-inclusive resorts. We had to stop here and get inland to the town of Bavaro to pick up some packages sent for us. We pulled up in front of one of the only empty lots on the entire beach (and this beach went on for miles) and were greeted by some super friendly Haitians, their Captain (who was a perfect Latin Adam Sandler lookalike), and loads of helpful locals. Now, the story of getting our packages is a long one so to keep it short we waited in Punta Cana for 4 days for our packages, got one (from our parents for Christmas), and are still waiting for one up here in Puerto Plata. Our days in Punta Cana consisted of us camping in the lot, hanging out on the beach, zipping back and forth to Bavaro on moto-taxis, and sneaking into resorts to swim in their pools. On Christmas Eve we moved from our very sandy tent to the very friendly Bavaro Hostel. Great people there whom Russell went out with till the sun shone again on Christmas morning. It was a lazy morning on Christmas (because Russell didn´t wake up till noon) but we both had full stockings, pancakes, a nice chat with our parents, and friendly friends around. Finally we decided to have the second package forwarded to Puerto Plata so we got out of their and started picking our way up the Dominican Republic coast.
The Samana Peninsula was GORGEOUS. And of course, everyone was amazing. In Las Galeras we met Bob and Christa from Toronto who took us out for drinks at Beach Club Playa Grande which is owned and operated by Daniel and Marisol from Montreal. Great place, great folks, great night.
A couple more nights took us to the cool little surf town of Cabarete for New Year´s Eve. At the Bavaro hostel we met some Swedish brothers who knew how to have a good time so we decided we´d met them there and bring in 2014 with a bang. We met them, a bunch of Brits and Scots, some Argentinians, locals, and so many more people whom we partied hard with and definitely brought in the New Year´s correctly. It was ridiculous. The next day we wrote off as a recovery day in Cabarete. After lounging on the beach, rehydrating, and walking around town the BIGGEST coincidence occurred. We were standing on the sidewalk when a white guy ripped by on a moto-taxi. Graham and him starred at each other for a few seconds and then the mystery man screamed out, ¨Graham!!!¨ And Graham followed with, ¨Holden!!!¨ Russell was pretty confused. Turns out the two went to University together last year and Holden is now down here with his family on vacation. We went over to their place that evening and after meeting the family (who were just lovely) and sharing stories we went out for some dinner. Having dinner with some young folks (Holden, his sister Lydia, and her friend Martha) was amazing. We don´t meet too many like-minded young folks these days and it really reaffirmed our craving for home and friendship.
Finally yesterday we paddled to the big city of Puerto Plata. Ocean World Marina to be more precise. As we were paddling through the yachts a man hollered at Graham, ¨I read about you guys online!¨ Woah. We ate our lunch with him and his friends on their catamaran. They really made us feel like celebrities.
So, now we´re here waiting for a weather window to make the biggest crossing of the trip and our lives to the Turks and Caicos archipelago. It will be 150 kilometers of paddling with winds on our right, will take us anywhere from 24 to 30 hours, and we are aiming for an island smaller than a breadbox. Oh dear.
Both of us talk daily about things we want to do when we get back home. We also talk about things we miss, crave, and want to change. So yes, it will be nice to get back to life, but quite honestly we´re getting a little worried it will be a bit boring. We experience something new every single day and believe that it is maturing us and preparing us for further experiences far faster then attainable back home. So to all you city dwellers out there, get out on your horse and go do something new.
January 3rd, 2014
St. Kitts and Nevis
The past 2 weeks have been great. We're really getting into the groove of things here in the Caribbean.
After a lovely send off from Cap Maison and St. Lucia we re-entered France in the overseas territory of Martinique. Immediately it felt like France again with baguettes and nudists crawling the beaches. Despite some nice campsites and cool views we cruised through it in a couple days. From there it was another 40 km hop over to the "Nature Island" of Dominica. We relaxed for day there in the capital town of Roseau, we bussed to a 200 foot waterfall, and ogled over the thousands of tourists in big funny hats flooding from the two cruise ships in port. Another day took us to the Northern tip of the island and then the next day we made our way over to Guadaloupe and once again, back into France. Our first afternoon/night there was great. We camped on our own private island on a very west coasty beach, cooked dinner over a fire, and climbed a big ol' mountain to an awesome view. Then again we motored up the coast camped on a gorgeous beach and head for the unknown to us island of Montserrat.
So to fill you in on what Montserrat is all about:
It was a popular tourist destination for famous musicians and rich folk back in the 80's. It's actualy a British overseas teritory. The capital and largest town on the island at this time was Plymouth. It had a population of roughly 4,000 people but was rather inconveniently located at the bottom of a dormant volcano. In 1994 it blew. The town and really the entire Southern half of the island were exacuated due to ash and other bad business. Shortly after the volcano chilled out and people were allowed back into the town. Then, after some rumbling and grumbling for a few years in June of 1997 things went from bad to worse. It erupted in a big way sending smoke, ash, and pyroclastic flows down onto the town and surrounding area. The town was re-evacuated but not before 19 people lost their lives. Since then the town has been deserted and off limits to public as it is covered in meters of ash, debris, and in danger of more as the volcano is still restless.
Well, we camped in Plymouth. It was pretty nuts. The downtown core is flattened with only a few buildings standing above the ash. In the surrounding hills homes in livable condition lay vacant. A true ghost town. Quite the experience for us.
From Plymouth we paddled to Little Bay which is currently undergoing a serious makeover as it and its neighboring bay are planned to be the new capital city. It will be incredible. Despite Montserrat being devasted from the volcano and only inhabited on the Northern third of the island, they have a seriously promising future.
Then came the 'sketchiest' day of the trip. We left our campsite in Little Bay at 5 in the morning (in the dark) to make the big crossing to Nevis. While leaving the beach we had huge crashing waves to bust through that really got the better of us. Russell was the first to go and he got rocked. After his paddle pulled apart mid stroke he didn't have enough umpf and got surfed, flipped and rolled up rather unhappy. He got out, fixed his paddle, tried again, flipped, rolled, and finally made it to safety on the other side of the break. Graham went next, got a little luckier with his timing almost flipping only once. Gaaah. Not a good start to the day.
Halfway through the crossing we came across the 'Kingdom of Redonda'. Now, there is really too much to say about it but all you need to know is it's officially part of Antigua and Barbuda, some consider it a micronation, and is uninhabited due to it being almost impossible to get on. Well, we got on it. After a not so smooth landing on a big surf, big rock cove we realized we were in a really bad situation with getting off of that big rock cove through big surf. We eventually did an hour long portage over some weird boulders, pushed our boats out to sea, and swam out to them. We were pretty nervous about busting our bones or our boats. Not a good time. BUT we are now some of the very few who have been on the Kingdom of Redonda.
Finally we made it to St. Kitts and Nevis. We are being hosted by the amazing folks at Montpelier Plantation and Beach Resort. Last night we chatted with guests about the trip over drinks, today we had an island tour, played tennis, and lounged by the pool. Everyone here is incredible, it's absolutely gorgeous, and the food! The food is unbelievable. LIFE IS GOOD.
November 21, 2013
Paramaribo, Suriname
So here we are in Paramaribo, Suriname with new friends and incredibly high spirits. What's Paramaribo and where the heck is Suriname!? Well, back in the day Suriname was owned by the British Empire. At that time present day New York was owned by the Dutch and was known as New Amsterdam. And then somehow they TRADED! New York for Suriname. More or less. Crazy history.
When we paddled across the river from French Guiana and entered Suriname we were greeted by two guys that had contacted us via our website with a desire to paddle with us to Paramaribo. When we first recieved their email we were hesitant to allow two strangers whom we knew nothing about join us, but pretty quickly the intrigue of mixing up our small group's chemistry and actually being able to talk to someone different while paddling became too overpowering to deny and we agreed. So that's how we ended up becoming friends with Etto and Yves.
They joined us in Albina with their sit on top kayaks, crazy cool vibes, and a surprisingly high willingness for the potential unpleasantness ahead. Despite our pace being slowed a bit, having the guys along with us was a real treat. They brought incredible positivity to any situation, told us loads of local history, and hooked us up with amazing places to stay. They really showed us a part of Suriname that we would not have seen without them.
One night we sat on a mud flat for 5 whole hours moving at about 50 meters per hour towards shore as we waited for the tide to rise. Another night we paddled for 12 hours until we reached the cozy plantation of Bakkie at 2 a.m. where we were fed and put up in our own bungalow by Sebastion at http://www.warappakreek.com. Incredible guy and incredible place to visit.
So here we are in Paramaribo with new friends, staying in a nice little guesthouse, have already made the front page of the newspaper, been on the news, and presented our trip story to the international school in town.
Lovin' Suriname. Get out there folks. Yves and Etto sure did...
Sept 16th 2013
Georgetown, Guyana
12 days ago we left Paramaribo, 6 days ago we left Suriname, and now we're here in Georgetown, Guyana.
The paddling has been quite different from what we've grown used too. Not necessarily in scenery or water wise; still loads of mud and lots of bugs, but how there are towns and people all over the place! There have been no 200 kilometer stretches between towns where we can get into a rhythm but rather friendly people curious to chat with us (in English!) and find out what the heck it is we're doing at every turn of the bend.
It was sad leaving Paramaribo and Suriname. We'd had a really good time there and made some truly amazing friends. Etto even drove out to New Nickerie (our last town in Surniame) to meet up and have one last Parbo with us. What a guy.
I guess our most notable day in the last two weeks was the day we reached the town of Totness. We decided to push into the night and plow out 95 kms to make it there because we had heard that the Governor was a fan and wanted to help us out. We paddled till 10 o'clock and managed to identify the radio tower and glowing lights of Totness through the trees. Unfortunately there is only one very small channel up to Totness through our favourite kind of mud (death mud) and due to it being low tide, night time, and us having no real GPS or map... we couldn't find it. So we hunkered down, took an hour nap in our boats and when the water started moving back in we slowly began inching towards the glow. It was at 3 a.m. when we finally made it up the channel and reached the town. We expected the guys waiting for us to have gone to bed (since we were 6 hours late and it was 3 a.m.) but miraculously the Governor's main man Steve was there with some friends in the middle of the night! Incredible! We then stayed with Steve in Totness (the Governor was out of town) for the whole next day and night where he showed us around the neat little district of Coronie.
We had been warned numerous times before coming into Guyana about how dangerous and unsafe it is. So accordingly at first we were a little uneasy and on edge but then all we've been able to find are kind generous people that talk funny. Here in Georgetown we're staying with a young American girl who is here volunteering for Peace Corps. The first night here we went to a cocktail party where we met people from all over the world. She's been great, everyone's great, loving Guyana. A very cool community here.
It's amazing how far the kindness of strangers stretches. It's followed us all the way from Belem and is showing no sign of letting up. Next stop, the Caribbean!
Sept 30th 2013
Castara Bay, Tobago
A Change of Scenery
So the South American leg of the journey is definitely over. Summary on that is in the video below. But as for our final days in South America, they can definitely be considered some of the best. Paddling through the rest of Guyana was much easier than we had expected and Venezuela even more so. Shell Beach in Guyana accomodated us for two nights; some incredible guys at the pilot station in Punta Barima Venezuela fed us and gave us our own room for a night; in contrast to our expectations, the few days through the Orinoco River delta were incredible with beaches all over the place; and then had a great current-assisted crossing over to Trinidad. We did have one night where we slept on a structure made of sticks shoved in the mud for drying fish... But that was actually surprisingly humourous so it was all good!
Once we landed in Trinidad along with an immigration and customs hassle we were greeted by our soon to be great friend, Ricky Tang. He's a member of the Trinidad and Tobago Canoe/Kayak Federation who had gratefully agreed to help us out during our time in Trinidad. After we'd stowed our boats in Ricky's beach house we drove across the island (with a pit stop at a Subway to go through immigration...) to Ricky's family and their lovely home in a Port of Spain suburb. Staying with the Ella-Tang's was an absolute treat. Despite all the incredible generosity we have recieved throughout the trip thus far we were absolutely blown away by Jenny, Ricky, and their kids. During our couple days in Port of Spain we were chauffeured around by Ricky to collect things we needed, given a tour of the city, stuffed with food and beer, talked to the grade fours at the school Jenny teaches at (which was amazing!), and met up with Freya Hoffemeister! For those of you who don't know who Freya is this pretty well sums her up. She's currently kayaking around South America. Yeah. She's intense. Going clockwise she is about to paddle the same coastline we just did but in reverse with currents and wind against her so we thought we'd give her some tips. She's now in Venezuela, good luck to her.
When we reluctantly left Port of Spain, drove back to Ricky's beach house, and hit the water again we paddled two solid days up the coast to Galera Point and then crossed over to Tobago in some stormy seas. Thankfully our parents were in Tobago waiting for us! They decided that nearly 4 months was long enough without seeing their boys and due to us reserving some R and R time in Tobago it would be a great vacation/family reunion location. So we bummed around in Tobago for a few days chilling out, snorkelling, exploring the island, doing the touristy vaction thing. It was great.
Then came the crossing to Grenada. We knew it was a big one. One of the two biggest of the trip in fact. We left in the late morning thinking it would take us 30 hours to complete. Along with loads of Edge Bars that The Edge Food Energy Company hooked us up with we had 4 meals pre-made and a bunch of assorted sugary things to keep us awake in the night.
Well, the crossing ended up taking us 24 hours and the toughest thing ended up being staying awake. We both didn't think it was possible but Russell actually fell asleep while paddling a couple times. He also vomitted all that food up in the a.m. with Grenada in sight. Yum.
So we're here with our folks once again who graciously came over to recieve us with beds ready to sleep in after the crossing. Grenada's pretty darn awesome.
Everything's pretty darn awesome these days.
So excited for the following months.
October 24th, 2013
Caribbean Cruising
We left Grenada a couple weeks ago now with some heavy hearts after a tough goodbye. Visiting with the parents was really great and we know they enjoyed seeing their two sons safe and sound. This trip is a tremendous test on them as parents and we are so greatful for how trusting and supportive they have been in the past and continue to be today.
Setting off from our hotel at Cabier Ocean Lodge we had a tough time shifting back into expedition mode but after a choppy paddle we made it to Sandy Island just off the Northern tip of Grenada. After a great stay there at what ended up being our own private island we made the notoriously rough crossing over to Carriacou. Landing in Hillsborough we flew through customs and immigration and then met our soon to be friend Kervin at his place on the beach. He was a really friendly guy and invited us over for tea, an offer we took him up on after running some errands. Tea turned into beer, which turned into staying for a dinner of delicious fish soup, which turned into another beer. All the while we learned more about where we were travelling through and how the people that live there make it so much more than just a pretty beach.
Leaving Carriacou we entered St. Vincent and the Grenadines at Union island and headed to the marine park called the Tobago Keys. They were definitely as beautiful as everyone said but after being spoiled to our own private paradise a couple nights previous, the amount of tourists roaming the beach was a little disheartening. We finished up the day by travelling over to Canouan island to meet up with Ian and the folks at Tamarind Beach Hotel. The hotel was closed for renovations but they were great enough to put us up for a couple nights and take amazing care of us. During our rest day we got to talk the local elementary school to some very excited and very energetic kids. It was a blast.
Setting out from Canouan we made for Bequia. After a rough day at sea and a bunch of rain we made landfall at dusk on a big burly surf beach. Waking up to yet another paradise we crossed over to Kingstown. Not such an easy place to land a kayak, our stay there was short and we quickly got back into the boats and headed up the coast. The leeward side of the island was a nice treat and we rolled into Wallilabou Bay on calm seas. This is one of the main sites where Pirates of the Caribbean was filmed but also had a customs office we could clear out of the country from. There is a small hotel and restaurant operation there as well and while we were totally planning of tenting it, Jane and Steve offered us a place in a hotel room!
The first half of the next day was great calm paddling up the leeward side of the massive volcano that makes up the Northern tip of St.Vincent. The situation quickly changed though and as we rounded the tip the winds picked up to a pretty devestating level. We eventually found a manmade breakwater at the town of Owia and took shelter there. Crossing to St. Vincent was out of the question so we spent the rest of the day being the center of the villages attention as we set up camp on the wharf. Everyone there was super friendly though, mostly just curious, and super hospitable.
The next morning the winds were cooperating and we had a big ol day over to St. Lucia. The Pitons greeted us as we pulled into Soufriere harbour. These are one of those landmarks and sights that you know a million other people have oggled over and photographed but you still can't help doing the same thing. Pretty darn jaw-dropping. We ended up staying the night in Soufriere on the government docks before signing into the country in the morning. We poked around town for the rest of the day and explored up a river (on our legs!) to a waterfall before heading around the corner to camp on the beach. A gorgeous paddle up the ever-gorgeous St.Lucian coatline the next day brought us here to Cap Maison at the Northern tip of St. Lucia. This is a resort so nice it still doesn't seem real and they have agreed to help us out and put us up for a couple nights. We first contacted the general manager Ross way back in January and from the get go he has been generous, selfless, and a very classy gentleman.
Long story short, the Caribbean has been a dream. Largely to blame for this dreamyness has been the people and the generosity we have encountered. Thank you to everyone we have met along the way. While the natural beauty is the easiest thing for us to photograph, the beauty in the people we meet is what we will remember forever. Thanks
Nov 6th 2013
Bang Bang
It seems like just yesterday we arrived in St. Georges on the Oiapoque but tomorrow we leave French Guiana. After an easy first day out of St. Georges we have settled into a solid routine and are really getting into a roll where we can make good time as well as smell some roses.
After that first easy day we were up at sunrise and ripped down the current of the Oiapoque river to the sea again. From there we pointed west with some super favourable light winds pushing us gently towards Cayenne. We had one good campsite on a rocky little island followed by one really not so good one on a bizarre mud lump with seemingly impossible amouts of mosquitoes. After fleeing that bug infested hell hole at 4am to catch the tide we had a great paddle to Cayenne with a pitstop for lunch on a tropical paradise island inhabited by the first monkies of the trip.
Cayenne was a welcome taste of the urban life and of course more croissants. After our first night at a hotel we met up with Tom through couchsurfing and stayed at his place for the next couple nights. This turned out to be a great basecamp and we were able to buy supplies, organize our life, and pickup a package from home with awesome company and a comfortable home to relax in. A delay with customs (we are good at those) caused us to stay an extra day in Cayenne so by the time we left we were definitely ready to explore more of the country and blasted the 45km down the coast to Kourou. Just outside this town is where France shoots stuff into space but unfortunately we didn't get the show we were hoping for when we camped on the beach in a city park. We bought supplies for the following 6 days here though and in the morning had the short hop over to the Iles du Salut.
These are the infamous prison islands made most famous back home by the book/movie combo of Papillon and are now basically paradise. Set 14km off the coast, the islands are free of the mangrove luck and are 3 little pictures of perfection sitting in turquoise blue water. When we arrived we explored Ile Royale which was the main island for prison operations. It was a Monday so we had the place basically to ourselves to wander through the ruins of jailhouses, solitary confinement cells, and other places we could only guess about. We had a couple necessary beers at the hotel on the hill and then set up camp in a sheltered bay. After a great afternoon of relaxing and a nice cold (read "not hot") sleep we regrettably packed up and set out down the coast.
After rounding the pounding surf of Devils Island we used the fact we were 14km off shore to our advantge and kept this distance the whole day. This was the first time we have had more than an hour or two of clear water and used it as an excuse to jump in to cool off more than once. After an afternoon of downwind surfing we turned towards shore to find a campsite. We pulled a big 0 though in finding only miles of mangroves yet again. We finally cracked and decided we would buy bugnets for our hammocks in the next town but for the time being we tied to a small bush and bunkered into bed just as the water left us sitting on the mud.
The next day was very similar in paddling and in mangrove abundance but we were thankfully able to tuck up a small river that led to the highway and camp on a boatlaunch near the road. This was also a bonus as we hit fresh water and were able to clean our salt water beaten bodies. Both of us are getting all kinds of funky sores and rashes from what we are pretty sure is a crazy combo of salt, dirt, heat, and friction. Yum.
Yesterday saw us paddle to the rivermouth of the Maroni rRiver and wait for the tide to turn. We got on the water after a couple hours when we thought it had turned. Apparently it hadn't and paddling proved pointless so we had another hour or so of waiting before ripping upriver to Saint Laurent du Maroni. We arrived in the dark and luckily were able to get ahold of Alessandro. He is an awesome guy who we met way on the otherside of French Guiana and gave us his number with the offer of a place to stay. So that's where we are now. We're headed to Suriname tomorrow and super excited to get on with discovering probably the most mysterious and unknown country of this trip. They speak...Dutch?
Sept 11th 2013
So long Brazil....Hello France!?!
After leaving Amapa about 10 days ago and dealing some pretty obscene coastline we have made it to the Oiapoque river. It is hard to explain how inhospitable this stretch of paddling was but we now see why the fishermen in Amapa told us it was impossible. Check out the photos and video posted in a few days when we reach Cayenne to get an idea of the lousiness. BUT, yesterday we left Brazilian territory and paddled the 6 km across the Oiapoque river to French Guiana and the small town of St. Georges. We are beyond excited to have completed this leg of the journey and for the welcome change that travelling into a new country brings about. Our unexpectedly long time in Brazil was not without its highlights however and it is a place we will both definitely miss.
Whenever you are stuck in a place waiting, in our case for our kayaks, and then spend the following 4 weeks battling daily against the challenging and brutal coastline trying to leave, it is very easy to start resenting the peculiarities and oddities of the place. This was certainly the case early on for us as our time in Brazil had the cloud of frustration hanging over it. It was not until our time in that wild and crazy country was drawing to a close that it sunk in how much it had rubbed off on us and how grateful we are for the time we spent there. Yesterday while leaving and the day before in Oiapoque were spent doing and eating things unique to Brazil "one last time".
It would also be unfair to finish this post about Brazil without mentioning the incredible people that made the country so much more than just a tough jungle. Whether it be the hordes of people who helped us, housed us and entertained us in Belem, the incredibly generous people who have helped us in pit-stop towns, or even the amused and confused fishermen who threw us countless thumbs ups of encouragement along the way, the people of Brazil blew us away.
But now we are in France (French Guiana if you want to be particular) and we are really pumped to be here. We landed in front of the local kayak club made up of freestyle paddlers and kayak polo players and are now staying in the clubhouse for a couple days. St. Georges is a tiny town on the border but it still is offering us an awesome change of pace from the uniformity of Brazilian culture. We spent last night drinking cheap French wine in our riverfront clubhouse and this morning bought a baguette after strolling through the vaguely European looking streets.
Life is good.
August 29th 2013
Chaves, Brazil. 1 week down...27 to go!
We arrived on shore in Chaves yesterday after a hard fought 56km day. We were on the water at 5 am as we really wanted to make it here in one shot. The current of the Amazon is a funny thing. Where we are currently paddling, while the tide rises and falls, there doesn't appear to be any surge up the river. I suppose that is to be expected when the largest river in the world comes out to meet the ocean. Because of this we have been paddling very close to shore and using the back eddies to our advantage. This works pretty well and we have luckily been able to still make good distance. The strong easterly winds have also been helping to push us up river but when they collide with the outflow there is some pretty gnarly water. A few days ago we definitely hit the first of what is sure to be many mental walls on the trip. We had several nights with some serious jungle bug issues paired with long hot days on the water. With some tweaking to our schedule and mental gymnastics we have got past this hurdle in the last couple of days and have settled into a great rhythm we hope to continue with as we head onwards.
Nonetheless, after 8 days of paddling we are in the town of Chaves for a much needed rest and resupply day. It is a town of about 5000 people and is just awesome. We were greeted on the beach by a number of friendly guys and this soon grew to a team of a dozen or so friendly men keen to lift things and take photos. We are cheap so immediately asked about places we could pitch our tent in town. They seemed skeptical about this idea and suggested the hotel. We asked how much it cost and asked again if we could camp. Again they seemed skeptical and made a couple phone calls. After a few minutes of waiting and wondering, a cart appeared and we were told they had swung us a great deal at the hotel (might be free but we will see when we check out tomorrow).
So that is where we are based for the day and we are falling in love with this town. There are hardly any cars in town and everyone seems to walk or ride their bikes on raised pathways. Like so much of Brazil this is a beautiful place populated by people that blow our minds regularly with their generosity and support.
From here we head North. We will be getting through the Amazonian river delta and out to some more familiar ocean paddling in about 5 days. The big concern now is a wild tidal bore called the Pororoca that would literally destroy us. It can be heard from 30 minutes away and in the local language translates to "great destructive noise" so we will keep an ear out. We have done our research though and it looks like we should be avoiding it due to our timing and the tide cycle. This next stretch is shaping up to be a doozy but in a very similar vein to the last 8 days. We are rested, cleaned, and ready to get out there again!
August 7th, 2013
Contrast
10 days ago we left Chaves with a successful 8 days of paddling under our belts and our spirits high. The 10 days that followed have been a whole lot of good and a whole lot of bad. We knew this was to be expected when we jumped into this adventure and in all honesty are loving it. We could go about explaining the good and bad in paragraphs with eloquent phrasing but that would be quite the read and we have kayaking to be doing at the moment. For now we will throw it down in list form at the end of the post.
Now not to get too philosophical but the way expeditions and trips into the outdoors seem to operate is they amplify the contrast. It is pretty hard to argue that the bad is bad. It's not fun, it's not enjoyable, it's certainly not easy. But that's not the point. Perhaps it is some masochistic tendency that draws us towards the challenge and discomfort that the bad of these adventures bring into our lives. Instead it seems as though we go through these challenges so on the other side we come out with a better understanding of the good in life. The food tastes better, the water cooler, the bed softer, and the company better. We don't go out, and in our case paddle, into these challenges to punish ourselves but instead in a long term investment on our own happiness and appreciation.
We are currently in a small dusty town named Amapa in Northern Brazil. It is 20km up a river and has around 10000 people living here. It is hot, buggy, and not terribly beautiful. It seems like paradise.
Here's to contrast. In the future, let the bad be rare, breif, bitter, and the good all the better because of it.
The Good:
- The paddling when we get in a groove (rare but glorious)
- Bug free campgrounds! (only 2)
- Sunrises (every morning)
- Sunsets (most evenings unless we are already asleep)
- The generosity of everyone we meet
- Sausage
- Current (when it is with us...which it rarely is)
- Cookies
The Bad:
- Bugs (they patrol the shore frustratingly well)
- Tides (at 18ft they make campsite choices very time dependent)
- Muddy water (like chai tea...always)
- Mud (seemingly impossible amounts of the stuff)
- Current (when it is against us...which it usually is)
- The lack of information as to where we are (we regularly have to get out and drag our kayaks over "ocean")
August 18th 2013
Ready to Rock and Roll
Heading to Fortaleza...
Okay, so it's been a while since we've informed the world as to what is going on with us. Mostly because we don't want to jynx anything. What we can say is that we are driving 15 hours to Fortaleza on Monday and returning to Belem Wednesday. Our hesitant departure date (for the paddling portion of this expedition) is set for Saturday the 27th. More details to come.
And if you haven't already, explore around the website as there are some new pages with new photos!
July 18th, 2013
The Luckiest Guys Around...
We are still in Brazil and still waiting for our kayaks. We were attempting to pay customs fees today and hopefully have our boats by the middle of next week. That was when our agent in Brazil realized that they literally missed the boat (the big boat) at a freight stopover in Buenos Aires Argentina. What this means is we have a whole lot longer (3 weeks) to wait before we can get in our little boats and start paddling.
As you can imagine this is unbelievably frustrating and dejecting. We do however have great friends here and an incredibly supportive paddling community. We have a free place to stay where we will just bunker down, read, exercise, stretch, and wait. Because really that is all we can do at this point.
Thanks so much for the patience for the paddling to begin. This has been one hell of an exercise in it for all of us. Russell's head is about to explode.
June 28th, 2013
Holy Smokes, Here we go!
We arrived in Belem a couple days ago safe and sound after a ferry ride and 3 flights. We were greeted at the airport by Evaldo, Joseph, and Nedson. They are 3 members of one of the local paddling clubs in Belem and immediately helped us feel at home. We have been paddling with the a couple of times already and they are full of enthusiasm and excitement. The real story though has been their hospitality and kindness towards us. Neston has given us his place to stay and his roomate Fred cooks and cleans for us. We try to help but he doesn´t really allow that...
The language is a battle but we are working through it. We started learning Portuguese on the plane ride here so where we are at is pretty good all things considered. Neston is an english teacher and our lifeline to understanding what the hell is going on. Belem is a great city, and we have great friends here though it is definitely a little intimidating to someone new to Brazil. I have travelled in Venezuela and Colombia before but this place is a whole nother kind of crazy. Hot, humid, busy, dirty, and apparently pretty dangerous, we are jumping straight into the fire on this trip and as of yet have stayed burn free.
Now we wait....Our boats are still on-route to Fortaleza and the staggering incompetence of our shipping agents has managed to cost us $3000. We are going to have to clear customs with these kayaks even though we have no intention of selling them in Brazil and because of this pay import duties. We have been trying like mad to get temporary admissions and have been banging our heads against the wall for weeks now. Yesterday, with the help of our friend Tony here we talked with our Brailian agent and were given the news that we had run out of time in trying to obtain this status and that due to an error in paperwork we MUST pay these fees. Ridiculous. Looks like the wall won... After a lot of stress and frustration however, we have looked at our funds and don´t think this will cripple the trip. It is just money and we aren´t in this thing to build wealth, we are in it to build experience.
Anyways, the boats will likely arrive a week today and until then we have a place to stay, a Fred to cook, friends to visit, some Reggae parties to go to, and a hilarious group of crazy Brazilians who are taking great care of us.
G
June 14th 2013
Set to depart tomorrow!
Our bags are packed, we've been poked with a bunch of needles, we've said some goodbyes and are now ready to rock and roll.
We're catching the Clipper Ferry down to Seattle tomorrow evening, spending the night there and then flying to Brazil on Monday.
Oh boy.
June 8th, 2013
12 days. Wowzers.
Both of us are ridiculously psyched to get this thing on the go. We've been paddling, acclimatizing (whenever we drive anywhere the heat is constantly cranked), having nightmares about snakes, and are tired of talking about things and just want to put our words into action. We fly out of Seattle on the tenth.
We've recently taken a serious financial blow with the shipping of our boats to Brazil. We're still on budget for the trip but no longer have as much financial cushion as we'd like in case of those inevitable hidden costs along the way.
If you want to help us out, head to our crowdfunding site!
http://www.gofundme.com/Henry-Brother-Kayak
May 29, 2013
One month to go!
Late last night we got home from our first training trip up in beautiful Clayoquot Sound. We spent four days paddling up the coast to Nootka Island where we helped out an old friend move a generator in his cabin. We refueled up there with a couple amazing meals and some cold beers and then pushed hard for two days to make it all the way back to Tofino and down to Victoria for Mother's Day breakfast.
We're both feeling really strong in our boats and very confident with our skill sets making us even more pumped to get going on the big trip in under a month.
May 12, 2013
3 Months till departure!
Graham's still chipping away at his final year at UBCO. Despite having being swamped with school work this winter he's still managed to get out either paddling or back country skiing once or twice a week.
Russell has been patrolling 5 days a week at Mount Washington since late November. He gets down to the ocean once a week for a paddle.
Both of us having other commitments are frustrated with our limited amount of time on the water and are excited for the latter part of April when we join up and can get down to business.
We're super stoked to announce that we just agreed to a partnership with Coast Mountain Culture Magazine. They are a West Coast magazine that will hopefully bring our story home to our own neck on the woods. They will join Canoe and Kayak as our two main Media Partners for the expedition.
Mar. 5th, 2013
Where we're at
Russell is back living in Victoria after exploring the East Coast of Canada this summer. He is climbing and paddling as much as possible while working on logistics of the trip. Graham is living in Kelowna while finishing his 4th year at UBCO. He will be training on Lake Okanagan before returning home in April to make final preparations and train as a team in the month before the trip.
Oct. 20th 2012
Hey! We're probably out paddling right now but if you want to see where we are click on the 'Where We At!? link above to see our MapShare thanks to our cool InReach SE.